It has everything: the tourism factor, rural charm, traditional appeal and just a dash (ok, a mighty big dollop) of implied family strife, backstabbing and conspiracy theory.

And there’s no doubt that the Masham Sheep Brewery was never going to have quite the same ring to it, was it?

The birth of the Black Sheep was the best part of 20 years ago and now the brewery stands proudly at the gateway to ancient Yorkshire market town of Masham, where it hides from view it’s Scottish & Newcastle owned rival, Theakston’s, the brewery which still bears the family name of Black Sheep founder Paul, husband of the woman who named his new venture back in the early 90s.

As the car bumps its way along the A1 to Masham, I’m unaware of Mrs Theakston’s role in the birth of Black Sheep’s brand identity, but I’m very aware of Black Sheep. My perception – a charming, rural, traditional brewery that make pleasant but unexciting beers. A brewery that adopts a bit too much humour from their ruminant mammal brand advocates for my liking.

Generally, I just see Black Sheep as a bit, well, sheepish.

I’m mulling over these perceptions and a recent discussion about innovation in beer as we sit down to start a 5 course beer and food pairing meal organised by Black Sheep at their Baar & Bistro, a notably modern and successful concept. 80 people are hunched over Welsh rarebit and Black Sheep Best Bitter, a simple and tasty dish to kick of the evening’s proceedings.

It’s fair to say that Black Sheep Brewery aren’t seen as innovators in the brewing world, but sat in the contemporary surroundings of their visitor centre there’s something of a paradox going on – despite their roots in Yorkshire tradition and simple, honest ales their home is dominated by marketing-led commercial strategies. The shop is filled to the rafters with Black Sheep branded rugby shirts and chutneys; the bistro, reminiscent of a ski chalet, serves contemporary dishes more akin to high street bars like Slug & Lettuce than a local pub. There are real ale baseball caps with sheep for logos. Pete Doherty would not be impressed.

Once the rarebit nibbles are gobbled up it’s a starter of Tempura Prawns, a staple of the high street bars and grills. The pairing with Golden Sheep was obvious but equally successful (in fact later in the evening it’s voted the best beer) and seemed to have particular favour with the female of the species.

Black Sheep beer tasting

Tempura Prawns with Golden Ale

Lamb shank braised in Black Sheep Ale

Chewing the cud with Head Brewer Alan

We tuck in, and perceptions of the brewery are challenged as head brewer Alan Dunn tells us about the imperial Russian stout that is conditioning somewhere beneath our feet in the depths of the brew house. Brewed for the Grand Baltic Adventure, a recreation of the sea journey suffered by stouts back in the 18th and 19th centuries on their way to the courts of the Russian aristocracy, the stout is one of 12 competing to be crowned tsar of stout by judges awaiting in St Petersburg.

An imperial stout is a far cry from Black Sheep’s usual cask ales, and next up in our showcase meal is the famous Black Sheep Ale to wash down melt-in-your-mouth lamb shank braised with the same beer. Arguably the most appropriate beer in the range for this course, but perhaps not the most appropriate beer in the world for it (something with just a bit more of a spicy herb twist or sweet, soft-fleshed fruit punch might have lifted the combination to greater heights). But we shouldn’t complain, as the lamb was magnificent, not in a Michelin-star way, but in a “How-the-hell-did-they-cook-it-that-well-for-so-many-people?!” way.

I’m wondering how Black Sheep brew so much beer for so many people too, with their beers found throughout pubs and supermarkets all over the north of England and beyond and the answer is in the huge brewing kit that populates the rest of the building. The houses not only Black Sheep’s original Yorkshire squares - cuboid fermentation vessels made from sandstone or slate – but also Black Sheep’s 21st century ‘squares’ – stainless steel cylinders that adopt the time honoured yeast trough and rousing technique  from the original designs, but that make it a darn sight easier to clean the equipment after use!

Chocolate tart arrives: it’s March and Ruddy Ram should really accompany the toasting of marshmallows over a winter fire. It’s a a fine friend to a bitter chocolate tart, palpably laced with liquorice and hints of molasses and smoky dairy milk, without quite the voluptuous mouth feel that stronger stouts might demand. Fundamentally, this is still a pub beer to keep regulars warm on those wet and windy walks home in the winter months.

Around the table conversation touches on the facilities at Black Sheep and the consensus is unanimously positive. Tradition, pub drinking and local character seem to form the basis of the brewery’s values and what could be more in tune with those values than a meal ended with local produce to share around a table?

“5.6%!” exclaims the chap sitting opposite me as the trio of Yorkshire cheeses arrives at the tables, accompanied with Riggwelter, Black Sheep’s strong ale. From the Norse-derived Yorkshire term for an upended sheep (“rygg” meaning back, and “velte” = “rigwelted”) the sheer mention of the ABV of Riggwelter almost knocked some drinkers off their chairs. It knocks the socks off the pairings so far too, without ever having to try too hard. Strong beer, strong cheese, voilà. Boozy, rich, yet distinctly Black Sheep. It a kind of  muted, Yorkshire decadence within dry-stone walled boundaries.

And that’s probably a good way to sum up the night, and Black Sheep. Good food, good beer, good company.

It’s not rock ‘n’ roll, it’s not ostentatious, but it’s certainly not what I’d call sheepish.

Black Sheep Brewery, Masham. So far the exterior of the brewery is free of sheep puns and we hope it stays that way...

The Black Sheep dinner was hosted at the brewery in Masham and they plan to put on similar events (we think they make a great surprise present for a real ale lover!) We were lucky enough to be invited by the brewery, and splendid hosts they are, so thank you to all the team. Ands thanks to Beer Reviews and Dave Lozman for saving the day with photos after ours were lost. And a big cheers to Will, Ian and Andy & co for an evening of mildly intoxicated conversation!

Potted Cheese with Toast

Like me, you are probably more familiar with the phrases Potted Beef or Potted Shrimp than Potted Cheese. ‘Potting’ ingredients is a traditional way of stretching ingredients with butter while adding flavours and it can be  done with a good cheese in the same way as it can with meat or fish. These days it is a great way of doing  something different with your cheeseboard and also linking the beer you’re drinking to the food you’re eating.

Ingredients

350g Yorkshire Blue cheese (Stilton or any other strong, crumbly cheese can be used)
75g unsalted butter (at room temperature and cut into cubes)
½ teaspoon ground mace
3 tablespoons Beer

Method

Ingredients

Crumble the cheese in a mixing bowl before adding the butter and spices and creaming with a spoon until the mixture is fairly smooth. Gradually add the beer, beating in each addition, until the mixture has the texture of a thick paste. This paste should be spooned into your serving/storage pot and smoothed off. The mixture needs to be left for a good few hours in the fridge before being served. The longer you leave it the more the beer will infuse with the cheese and the flavour will develop. It can be stored for a couple of weeks by sealing the top of the pot with some melted butter although these days there’s little reason to do this and making it with fresh ingredients on the day is probably the best course of action.

Mixing it up

I originally used Chimay Red in making this dish but did further tests with Old Hooky and Orval. I do think it lends itself quite well to Trappist beers and the Orval was the best in my opinion. You could equally use your own favourite ale and see how it goes, another one that I would like to try would be Badger’s Poacher’s Choice.

Serve by placing the pot in the middle of the table with some plain crackers, toast (as pictured) or some crusty bread and of course a glass of whichever beer you have chosen to make it with.

I’m in charge of beer and cheese, after picking some fancy samples at Lincoln Christmas Market earlier this month.

So I’m basically just looking for suggestions, as tomorrow I’m off to Beer Ritz to purchase the beers and on the way back stopping at Leeds Markets for the cheese.

Cheeses I have so far:

White Stilton Strawberries and cream – I’m thinking a strawberry Belgian beer

Yorkshire Black - a local Yorkshire beer?

Maplewood Smoked (just like Applewood smoked really) – a smoky porter or Rauchbier

Lancashire Apple, Raisin and Cinnamon – I’m stumped on this one!

I also have a bottle of aged Orval, but I’m greedily undecided as to whether I’m willing to share this with anyone!

Cheese selection at Lincoln Christmas Market. The difficult bit will be finding beers to accompany all of these!

www.meantimebrewing.com

Located less than 5 minutes walk away from Cutty Sark Station on the DLR this pub is really easy to get to but is located up a quaint side street. The exterior makes it appear as one of those dark traditional pubs. Opening the door you see a strange collision of modern and traditional as the large, light interior contrasts with the atmosphere projected from the street.

We arrived at 3.00pm on a Saturday afternoon and the place was full, we got one of only two or three free tables in the garden and all of the tables inside were occupied. The reason for the full tables soon became apparent as the food being served looked and smelt fantastic. The burgers were massive and were priced at under a tenner.

The round I bought was two pints of London Pale Ale (reviewed on here), a diet coke and two bags of nuts which came to £8.80 altogether. This is cheap enough in the middle of London I thought.

The range of beers on tap were as follows…

Adnams Bitter

Meantime LPA

Meantime Kolner

Meantime Helles

Meantime Wheat

Meantime  High Saison

Meantime London Stout

Aspall Suffolk Cider

As well as this they had a wide range of bottled ales and lagers that any respectable ale house would be proud to boast. For anyone who was unable to decide there were free samples offered and the staff were pleasant and approachable and I’m sure that they will have been happy to offer a helping word. In addition to this I note that the menus offered tasting notes on all of the drinks, dedicating 5 pages to beers and only 2 to food!!!

I certainly recommend this watering hole to anyone in London. Meantime make some cracking beers and they have hit the perfect mix of old and new, traditional and modern, in order to create the perfect environment to drink them in.

I was unfortunately accompanied by my hairy Cypriot ex-university mate, but I got the definite feeling that, even with my natural deficiencies with the female of the species, I could make some progress by bringing a date here.

We were drinking the house Tempranillo which, at £4.10 a glass, was expensive (by Leeds prices) for a glass of house red. That said, it was a better quality wine than you can usually expect from the average house red and was, on reflection, worth the money.

I did not eat because I was too full from a Icco’s Pizza (Goodge Street) but the food looked great and reflected the flavour of the place. Check out the menu on the ‘Food’ section of the website… www.gordonswinebar.com