Cornish IPA by St Austell (for M&S)

Another of my purchases from M&S Simply Food, this beer is branded as Bottled Conditioned IPA, created for M&S by St Austell Brewery.

Opened very soon after I’d tried Marks & Spencer’s India Pale Ale, this IPA showed a real floral character that the M&S ale missed.

The bottle says this is brewed with Cornish Spring Water, and there is a refreshing, natural edge that the earlier M&S beer didn’t have (instead that tasted medicinal and unnatural).

The hops are dominant, but light and very different to the malty finish. It’s a beer of some contrast, you can taste the American hops (Cascade, Chinook and Williamette) that rush forward as you sip it and that precede the finish – there’s almost a pause before the barley comes out to play. The finish lingers enough to appreciate it, but not excessively as the M&S IPA. Interestingly this is a beer of strong floral taste initially and very citrusy aromas, and I believe the Williamette hop is primarily used for aromatic purposes.

Cornish IPA by St Austell - stocked by M&S

And that’s the difference between St Austell’s IPA and M&S’s own bottle (although I guess someone else makes that too?!), there’s a real character and depth to it that is provided by the hops, and in this beer they serve their purpose well – they are the decoration, the headliner, the bit you remember.

I enjoyed the Cornish IPA and it’s clearly defined, almost split personality. It tastes of flowers and smells of lemons with light malt tones (it’s different to the St Peter’s version which has similar characteristics though). It doesn’t quite match White Shield, but it is refreshing and enjoyable.

On the off chance that St Austell also brew the M&S branded IPA, the brewery have chosen the correct way to market these ales, the Cornish IPA suits its moniker, whilst the M&S branding reflects is less adventurous, more traditionally (but not historically accurate) IPA style and I’ll certainly nip in for another of these after a taxing trip to Ikea!